![]() ![]() While this is Siegel’s “everyday food,” Bauer’s budget-conscious side is also excited by the $80, eight-course tasting menu - a steal when you consider Siegel’s Ritz-Carlton and Iron Chef pedigrees. ![]() The roast chicken with potato puree “felt familiar and exotic at the same time,” and Siegel likes to dream up creative takes on a “surf-and-turf” theme by pairing items like black cod with pork belly or ling cod with short ribs. Lassen trout in a bowl of dashi or the rabbit liver mousse that “could easily be served at the French Laundry.” Straightforward comfort foods also take on an exciting element at Madcap, Bauer says. Siegel’s precision shows up in dishes like the rabbit tortelloni with Parmesan spuma, the subtly Japanese Mt. Madcap is “the best cooking in Marin,” the headline blares, and despite some initial apprehension at the “edgy” menu offerings, Bauer says Siegel’s dishes “excite but never overwhelm the senses.” ![]() The critic was a three-star fan of the roadhouse-meets-tasting menu vibe at the Rancho, but he’s an even bigger fan now that Siegel has moved to a less rural address. Michael Bauer followed chef Ron Siegel from his short-lived stint at Rancho Nicasio to his new kitchen at San Anselmo’s Madcap for this week’s review. The chicken tacos were disappointing, the titular stone pots lacked the punch of the same dish at Namu Gaji and the Raging Ramen was “timid, in fact.” That said, you should still indulge in Crispy Crack chicken, the okonomoyaki or the “garlicky, tongue-scorching” sisig. Eater’s Rachel Levin was underwhelmed by Dennis, David, and Daniel Lee’s fast-casual Namu outpost on Divisadero. ![]()
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